Reviews
Muller Ellipse 4 Paint Match
After extensive searching and expensive custom paint mixing I've found a solution to matching the yellow
Muller paint. See photos below:
After a minor crack and dent in the fuselage and subsequent fibral-bonded carbon cloth repair I had to
match the paint. Anyone who's done this before knows it's a painful and sometimes expensive operation.
However I found a spray can match for it (it's not perfect but pretty close).
In Australia this is the paint can. Available from "Supercheap Autos" here in Launceston, Tasmania.
See...it's not perfect, but a little weathering and polishing and it'll be fine.
Mongoose - by Marcus Stent
Reviewed by Bruce Nye
This Australian manufactured F3B glider delivers the goods with its contemporary design
features; HQW 2/8 section, all-carbon layup (wings & fuse), all surfaces wipered for less
drag and a ballast tube that can take 1Kg for ballistic conditions.
It's a super all-rounder; in F3B it's recorded a sub-16 speed run, in thermal duration it
made the "Perfect Flight" fly-off at Jerilderie 2005.
Underside of wing showing low-drag covers for aileron & flap control surfaces;
both bottom hinged & fully-wipered...this beast is slippery!
It's available to order in both V-tail & Cross-tail setups.
After flying this model for the last 18 months the author can say with authority
that it's
vice-free, responsive, a pleasure to fly and it makes all the right noises
at speed (cue
high-pitch tortured banshee screams).
It needs setting-up (like most F3B thoroughbreds) for the best results
(for set-up
details, and Aerokam accessories, email the author here).
Vac-formed servo covers; clear acrylic plastic, mount with 3M book tape
for a low-drag remedy to servo arm protection.
4 mounts to a pack; CNC machined from hardwood. Epoxy these into
your wing, slot your servos in & a blob of silicon or epoxy to retain.
Typically stout all-carbon wing-joiner.
Inverted radio-install...you are looking at the Mongoose's underbelly.
The frontal area has been minimized but the radio bay is still wide enough
for most set-ups.
Bottom-live-hinges allow large flap deflections.
If it were a car, it'd be a:
Lamborghini Countach!
Breta Models Nyx Furio
Update:
After straining it through a fence thanks to an attack of idiot thumbs and
extreme sink, the tailplane
pivot "pulled-stumps". Both interior alum flanges broke away from the skin.
The remedy was to enlarge the skin pivot holes <sniff> to gain access to
the flange surfaces. After scrubbing them clean with a file tip, a slurry of
24-hr epoxy & West Systems filler was drizzled into the holes. Plasticene
was used to block the pivot holes, then the fin was clamped for 24hrs. Success! It lines up perfectly & is far stronger than factory!
Ballast:
It loves ballast. With only 4 lead slugs out of a possible 10 (the performance is smooth).
Next project is to melt the other 6 slugs for that extra ; total = 1.5KG of ballast.
Does it fly? Oh yes! It's a keeper. If you're after a modern composite
(carbon/kevlar/fibreglass) all-purpose glider then the Furio should be high
on your list. It's principal design focus is success in F3B.
It's fighting weight is around 2.2Kg with room for another 1.5 Kg. Like most
modern gliders, the ability to maintain height & momentum is astonishing.
If you've flow powered 'planes all your life & not tried a glider like this then
you're missing out on a superb flying experience.
Coupled flaps/ailerons requires a computer radio and is well worth it. The
ability to force the wing out of stall through sheer flying-surface leverage is
very handy.
As for speed, this is up there with the best; 15 sec speed runs in Europe
are testament to that. It certainly makes the right noises; that musical medium-to
high pitch wail as the air gets coerced into parting is available to the bold
and fast.
There's plenty of room for a fat (relatively) JR9ch RX & side-by-side JR368s.
The JR RX tends to buzz the digitals so next on the wish-list is a Multiplex
IPD which, by all reports doesn't buzz them.
The carbon elevator pushrod tends to flex enough to hit the fuselage
internally (half-way down the fuse).
The rudder pushrod is a thin steel rod which seems to do the job. A carbon
replacement would be lighter. I'm happy with it however, I'm not overly
concerned with all-up weight.
Noseweight consists of epoxy-soaked lead shot.
The rudder is wipered (all surfaces are) and is great to keep your thumb
busy while flattening out the thermal turns. It's fairly large but don't expect
miracles when it has a 3.2m all-carbon wing to shift about!
The Furio tail is all-moving; smaller than the Nyx by about 20-30 sq inches;
tests with the Nyx tailplane revealed no perceptible difference in handling;
the reduced wetted-area may provide lower overall drag.
Multiplex connectors make set-up a no brainer. Ditto the click connector
which does a good job of holding the wings on. Tape the wings on if you
must (for extra-reassurance) but so far with 1.5lbs ballast on board through
the tight n' twisty stuff they've stayed put.
All carbon wing ensures a no-ding, no-hangar-rash experience. Every home
should have one!
Still not eagle-proof however...I copped a hit from a big-buzzard at my
local inland slope during lambing-season (eagles aplenty) which cracked
one tip & needed some 'glass and resin to remedy. All fixed & I now have
greater respect for their razor-sharp talons!
The planform follows the latest trends in eliptical layout. A very stable
arrangement; it flies superbly, looks good & is very forgiving at low speeds.
Keep the speed up and the wing section can maintain a very good L/D
ratio.
Available from all good model stores; not cheap, but like everything in this
life; you get what you pay for.
If it were a car, it'd be a:
Ferrari Testarossa!
A pushrod keeper half-way down the fuselage
A ballast tube IN the fuselage as well as the wing joiner.
Stronger tail pivot bond inside the fin.
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